Monday, 20 October 2014

Walking around Buenos Aires.

Up as usual, shower and breakfast at 08:00 and out of the Hotel by 08:45 for the short walk (8 blocks to the right, then a further 2 blocks right along Avenue Santa Fe until we reached the green Subeo sign for Palermo station.  Bought two tickets (@ 5 pesos  each) from the ticket office and went down to the platform.  The first train came in was completely full but lots more people crammed in while we waited  for the next one right opposite where the door had closed.  The next train arrived in a few minutes and we let the crowd push us into the carriage.  We were concertinaed until the 8th stop when Alison was offered a seat.  At the 10th and last stop we disembarked and went up the escalator straight onto the street. We found our bearings and walked to the meeting point by the monument.
Claudio met us at 09:45 and after discussing our preferences, we started our walk at the Presidential Palace which is permanently protected by anti-demonstration barricades as there is usually a demonstration each day in the morning against government policy, followed by one in the afternoon in favour!  Police vehicles, including water cannons, were deployed, with engines running  at all times as violence could flare up without warning.
We went inside the opulent interior of the national bank (photography not allowed) and then to the cathedral, which from the outside looked like a museum.  Pope Francis was a Cardinal here.  A special Mass was being celebrated in remembrance of the patron saint of the municipal police
This cathedral houses the mausoleum of repatriated remains of  Jose de San Martin, who died in exile in France.

We then saw a white building designed by Blanci (a Jesuit) the colonial town hall, which was previously a prison.
On the way to San Telmo we called in at the Iglesia de San Ignacio, which houses the mausoleum of General Belgrano and commemorates the successful fight against the British invasion of 1806-07.  One of its towers bears the marks of cannon fired as the British force took refuge in the church.
On to San Telmo, whose graffitti-lined streets demonstrate that it is an area on the up aiming to match the bohemian district of Palermo.

We moved onto the canal area of Puerto Madero with its mothballed failed tram system, and the Catholic university, with its striking new bridge (ladies bridge according to Debs) and the masts of the former sail training vessel to be seen.
Then we caught the number 64 bus back to Place Mayo, where we took our leave of Claudio and enjoyed a welcome sit down and lunch at cafe Tortoni, the oldest cafe in Buenos Aires, and whose colonial decor was reminiscent of La Cigale in Nantes.  A delicious salad, glass of wine and ice cream dessert were what we needed after our morning stroll.
We left the cafe and headed towards the Avenue 9 de Julio, the widest street in Buenos Aires, and one of the widest in the world, with 11 traffic lanes in each direction.  On past the obelisk and to the Teatre Colon, which is the superb Opera House. Unfortunately, all the English tours were sold out, so we were unable to see it.  Some more strolling around and then it was a cab back to the hotel, to rest up and then write up today's activities.
back at the Hotel, the evening porter suggested that, if we would like some pasta, Il Grand Carouso, just a few blocks away, would be a good choice.  We duly found it, but having looked at the extensive menu, chose antipasti to share for starters followed by chicken for Alison and veal for Pete.  once again we were too full for dessert, so asked for cafe solo;  this was served, not with sparkling water, but sparkling wine!  When we complemented them on their wine, we were surpirsed to be offered another glass just as we were leaving, served outside whilst we watched the world go by!
We did not quite have enough pesos for the bill, and surprisingly they did not accept dollars, so this was our first credit card transaction (apart from the hire car deposit).

Then a short walk back to the Hotel ready for our early start  tomorrow!





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