Breakfast was served on the plane about 10:00 UK time, since the hour change meant that Brazil was only two hours behind GMT.. We arrived half an hour early at Heathrow, were quickly through immigration (once the e-passport gates decided to work), luggage arrived promptly and we got to the arrivals lounge for a welcome shower by 13:30. We were hoping to spend some time relaxing there before the next stage of our journey, but discovered that it closed at !4:00 - just as well our flight landed early.
We bought our coach tickets and arrived at Gatwick at 15:30 and checked if we could get on an earlier flight. We had just missed the 16:30, but there were seats available at 18:10, so Pete queued at the customer service desk and 25 minutes later after a few technical hitches managed to get replacement tickets.
No particular photo opportunities for this leg of the journey.
It was great for Adrian to meet us at the airport and take us home to a reality check of two washing machines to fill!
817 photos and over 200 video clips were uploaded onto the main computer - there will be some serious editing to do over the dark winter months ahead.
Many thanks to all (especially the folks at Audley) for organizing such a memorable trip to Latin America. We feel we should have spent longer there, and that is always the best way to feel!
Monday, 27 October 2014
Saturday, 25 October 2014
Iguacu and homeward
Up as usual and went down for breakfast, which Alison thought was very good, but Pete said was not quite up to yesterday's standard.
Finished packing and sorted out money for paying the bill. We used up all our remaining Pesos and then paid the balance in dollars - a very good rate of 14 pesos to the dollar!
Sylvano arrived and loaded up the car and off we went to the airport to check-in and print our boarding card. Just as well Sylvano was with us as all the dialogue was in Portuguese!
We went through the Argentinian border control very smoothly and onto the equally slick Brazilian control.
Once done, we drove about 10 minutes to the national park entrance where Alison made the most of the souvenir shop while Sylvano parked the car. We passed through the entry gates and then drove about 9km to the entrance to the viewing trail. Sylvano explained the map and showed us where to start and then told us where he would meet us after he had parked at the far end. We had 15 minutes to ourselves to admire the outstanding panorama of the Argentine falls.
It was Alison's turn to be gobsmacked at the 2.7 km of the over 200 individual waterfalls and to have her photos taken before them. Whilst yesterday Pete had walked over the Argentinian falls, today we could see them in all their splendour.
We met with Sylvano as planned and then took the path towards Devils throat. There was a lower level walkway right across the face of the falls where we could see swifts darting in and out of their nests and rainbows in the mist, plus the opportunity to get soaked!
Afterwards, we took the elevator up to the exit area, where Sylvano ushered us to the restaurant which was on the banks of the river.
After an excellent lunch we were off into the car to the airport where again Sylvano eased us through the crowds to check in our bags. We had a 20-minute sit down and then straight onto the TAM plane which left on time and arrived in Rio a little early.
It was cloudy when we landed perhaps we will see the lights of Rio when we take off.
Our luggage came on the correct belt and we then went up the lift to floor 3 and commenced the long walk to terminal 1, reaching the British Airways check-in desks by about 18:00. Unfortunately they didn't open until 20:00,so we found a coffee shop for a light snack.
We checked in and proceeded through security and then another very long walk through a long corridor of empty shops until we reached the lounge - which was probably the worst club lounge we had ever seen - no showers and not very comfortable seats either. It seems that Terminal 1 may be due for refurbishment before the Olympic Games!
Pete discovered (a) that the Netbook was flat and (b) the charger was in the suitcases which had been checked in. Fortunately we borrowed an adapter from fellow passengers so that the photos could be uploaded to the Netbook, which gave them the chance to see our photos of Iguacu, and to be given an Audley card!
Pete was still in the process of putting on his flight socks when we were called early for boarding.
The calming glass of bubbly helped us get settled into the superior BA seats (by comparison with Iberia). We were seated in the middle of a 2-3-2 system with Pete facing backwards, so we were able to gaze into each others eyes, when they were open, that is.
Despite the late hour we managed a starter and main course, plus glass of Chardonnay, but once again skipped the dessert. It was soon time for bed and we both slept well (helped by a cup of hot chocolate during the night for Alison).
The lights went on with 2 hours left to go and it was time for breakfast.
Finished packing and sorted out money for paying the bill. We used up all our remaining Pesos and then paid the balance in dollars - a very good rate of 14 pesos to the dollar!
Sylvano arrived and loaded up the car and off we went to the airport to check-in and print our boarding card. Just as well Sylvano was with us as all the dialogue was in Portuguese!
We went through the Argentinian border control very smoothly and onto the equally slick Brazilian control.
Once done, we drove about 10 minutes to the national park entrance where Alison made the most of the souvenir shop while Sylvano parked the car. We passed through the entry gates and then drove about 9km to the entrance to the viewing trail. Sylvano explained the map and showed us where to start and then told us where he would meet us after he had parked at the far end. We had 15 minutes to ourselves to admire the outstanding panorama of the Argentine falls.
It was Alison's turn to be gobsmacked at the 2.7 km of the over 200 individual waterfalls and to have her photos taken before them. Whilst yesterday Pete had walked over the Argentinian falls, today we could see them in all their splendour. We met with Sylvano as planned and then took the path towards Devils throat. There was a lower level walkway right across the face of the falls where we could see swifts darting in and out of their nests and rainbows in the mist, plus the opportunity to get soaked!Afterwards, we took the elevator up to the exit area, where Sylvano ushered us to the restaurant which was on the banks of the river.
After an excellent lunch we were off into the car to the airport where again Sylvano eased us through the crowds to check in our bags. We had a 20-minute sit down and then straight onto the TAM plane which left on time and arrived in Rio a little early.
It was cloudy when we landed perhaps we will see the lights of Rio when we take off.
Our luggage came on the correct belt and we then went up the lift to floor 3 and commenced the long walk to terminal 1, reaching the British Airways check-in desks by about 18:00. Unfortunately they didn't open until 20:00,so we found a coffee shop for a light snack.
We checked in and proceeded through security and then another very long walk through a long corridor of empty shops until we reached the lounge - which was probably the worst club lounge we had ever seen - no showers and not very comfortable seats either. It seems that Terminal 1 may be due for refurbishment before the Olympic Games!
Pete discovered (a) that the Netbook was flat and (b) the charger was in the suitcases which had been checked in. Fortunately we borrowed an adapter from fellow passengers so that the photos could be uploaded to the Netbook, which gave them the chance to see our photos of Iguacu, and to be given an Audley card!
Pete was still in the process of putting on his flight socks when we were called early for boarding.
The calming glass of bubbly helped us get settled into the superior BA seats (by comparison with Iberia). We were seated in the middle of a 2-3-2 system with Pete facing backwards, so we were able to gaze into each others eyes, when they were open, that is.
Despite the late hour we managed a starter and main course, plus glass of Chardonnay, but once again skipped the dessert. It was soon time for bed and we both slept well (helped by a cup of hot chocolate during the night for Alison).
The lights went on with 2 hours left to go and it was time for breakfast.
Friday, 24 October 2014
Iguazu
We had a good night's sleep, but Alison woke up to discover it was not her day.
Four trips to the loo later she realised that a half or full day trip was not on the cards!
She persuaded Pete to go alone and he went to breakfast (the best buffet table so far) and returned with a slice of toast.
Then he got sorted for Sylvano arriving at 09:30. He needed to get his wallet out of the safe, so quickly put in the code to lock it and off he went.
Alison gave him suggestions for shopping and reminded him to get some water.
Anyway Alison got showered and dress and managed to sit in the shade by the pool by about 11:00.
The butterflies sitting on the decking and things that are three time the size of ants are crawling around, some with huge leaves on their backs. The birds are chirping away, but remain hidden.
Alison managed about an hour and a half by the pool and then went back to the cool of the veranda, where she could study the wildlife in the forest outside.
Meanwhile Pete and Sylvano were treading the boardwalks around and above the countless small but high (60m) waterfalls that abound on the Argentine side of the falls, which extend for 2.7 km.
Pete was juggling the video and still cameras, but Sylvano helped out by taking photos of Pete at various points. Obviously tomorrow he will be pressed into service to take some photos of Alison on the Brazilian side. Because of the winter floods, the walkway to Devil's throat was closed, but fortunately we will get a good view of that tomorrow. The tour concluded with lunch at the falls and they set off back at about 13:30.
Just about 14:00 Pete arrived back with his stories of his amazing trip to the falls. He also confirmed that tomorrow start is at 09:00, because that is 10:00 Brazil time.
He put the photos on the Netbook whilst we both had a cup of Earl Grey. He suggested that Alison should have chilled out on the hammock, but then realised she would probably have tipped over the balustrade and fallen 6 feet into the jungle! We went down to the pool and had a cooling swim when it had cleared of youngsters. back to the room for another spa bath and then to watch some more video, Pete finishing off last night's bottle of Malbec and Alison staying on the water.
En route to the restaurant tonight we must try to check-in for the flights tomorrow in the Internet cabin. Can't believe its that time already, but the bible says it is, so it must be true.
So to check-in we expect we will need our passport details yet again, so Pete went to retrieve them from the safe./ He entered the code,but the door refused to open, so he put it in again and the door stayed firmly closed. It must have been that in his sleepy stupor this morning he entered a different code to close it.
So off to reception with tail between legs ;
"Ah the safe for Anahi - that is upstairs, so we will get it tomorrow"
"But we leave at 09:00 tomorrow!"
"We will see what we can do"
Meanwhile we located a photocopy of our passports so proceeded to check-in at the (Portuguese) TAM website. Check-in on-line not possible (At least that's what we thought the Portuguese said.)
So it will have to be at the airport after all.
We both had a fairly light dinner ; Catfish Alison was thinking of her little catfish in the aquarium, but it seems this one was bigger. Once again no room for desserts.
As we returned to our room we were met by a kind staff member who unlocked the safe - which will stay unlocked! Panic over for tonight.
Four trips to the loo later she realised that a half or full day trip was not on the cards!
She persuaded Pete to go alone and he went to breakfast (the best buffet table so far) and returned with a slice of toast.
Then he got sorted for Sylvano arriving at 09:30. He needed to get his wallet out of the safe, so quickly put in the code to lock it and off he went.
Alison gave him suggestions for shopping and reminded him to get some water.
Anyway Alison got showered and dress and managed to sit in the shade by the pool by about 11:00.
The butterflies sitting on the decking and things that are three time the size of ants are crawling around, some with huge leaves on their backs. The birds are chirping away, but remain hidden.
Alison managed about an hour and a half by the pool and then went back to the cool of the veranda, where she could study the wildlife in the forest outside.
Meanwhile Pete and Sylvano were treading the boardwalks around and above the countless small but high (60m) waterfalls that abound on the Argentine side of the falls, which extend for 2.7 km.Just about 14:00 Pete arrived back with his stories of his amazing trip to the falls. He also confirmed that tomorrow start is at 09:00, because that is 10:00 Brazil time.
He put the photos on the Netbook whilst we both had a cup of Earl Grey. He suggested that Alison should have chilled out on the hammock, but then realised she would probably have tipped over the balustrade and fallen 6 feet into the jungle! We went down to the pool and had a cooling swim when it had cleared of youngsters. back to the room for another spa bath and then to watch some more video, Pete finishing off last night's bottle of Malbec and Alison staying on the water.
En route to the restaurant tonight we must try to check-in for the flights tomorrow in the Internet cabin. Can't believe its that time already, but the bible says it is, so it must be true.
So to check-in we expect we will need our passport details yet again, so Pete went to retrieve them from the safe./ He entered the code,but the door refused to open, so he put it in again and the door stayed firmly closed. It must have been that in his sleepy stupor this morning he entered a different code to close it.
So off to reception with tail between legs ;
"Ah the safe for Anahi - that is upstairs, so we will get it tomorrow"
"But we leave at 09:00 tomorrow!"
"We will see what we can do"
Meanwhile we located a photocopy of our passports so proceeded to check-in at the (Portuguese) TAM website. Check-in on-line not possible (At least that's what we thought the Portuguese said.)
So it will have to be at the airport after all.
We both had a fairly light dinner ; Catfish Alison was thinking of her little catfish in the aquarium, but it seems this one was bigger. Once again no room for desserts.
As we returned to our room we were met by a kind staff member who unlocked the safe - which will stay unlocked! Panic over for tonight.
Thursday, 23 October 2014
Iguazu here we come!
Up and about early this morning and we went into the courtyard to find our individually laid table with our own breakfast selection. Pete managed to navigate the LAN check-in site (in Portuguese this time) and the receptionist printed out our boarding cards. All packed we finished up the blog from the previous two days while we waited for Marcello (who arrived arrived early) to take us back to the airport, his luxurious car such bliss for the boneshaker roads of |Buenos Aires. We saw a train, Ferrovia train but the camera was in the boot! (Sorry P&M).
There was a long but fast-moving queue at checkin, but we were able to go upstairs in a short time to departures. Alison's book in her backpack caught the security guard's eye, so needed to be examined.
There was a Hard Rock shop by gate 15, but the cafe was under construction, this was the first one Alison had seen in South America, so a pin for her cap was duly bought.
The flight was called and once again it was a bus for the plane; for the first time we had to give in our boarding passes at the gate so needed the copies that LAN say you have to take.
The usual box of biscuits plus soft drinks on offer and the view was hazy and not photogenic, but would look impressive in the right lighting conditions.
Luggage appeared promptly and on the right belt (there was only one operating!) and Sylvano was there to meet us in a comfortable car. As he is from Brazil, he will be our guide and driver throughout.
On leaving the airport we saw a large lizard crossed the road in front of us and we were surrounded by yellow butterflies all the way to the Lodge.
Road signs warned of tapirs and raccoons (fodder for the Pumas),
Sylvano saw us into the Lodge and that we were checked in properly. We will see him tomorrow for our excursion to the Argentine side of the falls. We were upgraded to a suite with two double beds, a separate lounge area, a spa bath and a hammock on the veranda.
A porter led us through the forest paths to our cabin Anahi in the Guarani. Anahi is a Guarani name which means beautiful as the ceibo flower. it symbolises courage and strength in the face of suffering (no doubt a reference to horse riding in Torres el Paine).
We read the Lodge information booklet and then cooled down in the three tier pool in the evening sun. It was still around 30 degrees. We enjoyed a melon fruit juice served at the pool side and then back to the room for a spa bath to warm us up again!
We will be sampling what is on offer in the restaurant tonight, but unfortunately as it is low season there will be no folk music.
There was a long but fast-moving queue at checkin, but we were able to go upstairs in a short time to departures. Alison's book in her backpack caught the security guard's eye, so needed to be examined.
There was a Hard Rock shop by gate 15, but the cafe was under construction, this was the first one Alison had seen in South America, so a pin for her cap was duly bought.
The flight was called and once again it was a bus for the plane; for the first time we had to give in our boarding passes at the gate so needed the copies that LAN say you have to take.
The usual box of biscuits plus soft drinks on offer and the view was hazy and not photogenic, but would look impressive in the right lighting conditions.
Luggage appeared promptly and on the right belt (there was only one operating!) and Sylvano was there to meet us in a comfortable car. As he is from Brazil, he will be our guide and driver throughout.
On leaving the airport we saw a large lizard crossed the road in front of us and we were surrounded by yellow butterflies all the way to the Lodge.
Road signs warned of tapirs and raccoons (fodder for the Pumas),
Sylvano saw us into the Lodge and that we were checked in properly. We will see him tomorrow for our excursion to the Argentine side of the falls. We were upgraded to a suite with two double beds, a separate lounge area, a spa bath and a hammock on the veranda.
A porter led us through the forest paths to our cabin Anahi in the Guarani. Anahi is a Guarani name which means beautiful as the ceibo flower. it symbolises courage and strength in the face of suffering (no doubt a reference to horse riding in Torres el Paine).
We read the Lodge information booklet and then cooled down in the three tier pool in the evening sun. It was still around 30 degrees. We enjoyed a melon fruit juice served at the pool side and then back to the room for a spa bath to warm us up again!
We will be sampling what is on offer in the restaurant tonight, but unfortunately as it is low season there will be no folk music.
Back to Buenos Aires for a Tango show.
Alison awoke with a start to to Pete wondering why his phone said 09:15 when the alarm had been set for 08:00 and had not gone off! She put on her glasses and replied 8:15!
It transpired that for some reason the phone had decided to set Uruguay time at 7.30 there by missing the alarm for 8!
Up to the 4th floor for a very light breakfast - no tables were set, so it was a free for all where we sat.
The view was fantastic, but the windows did not open so the tables by the windows were very hot, so we chose one where we could see the view in comfort.
We left our room and sat outside in the shade waiting for Debs in temperatures approaching 70F.
Back to Debs' place and the children were bouncing around ready for showers, lunch (empaladas again) . Ann & Bob's bedroom had been flooded from the pet shop next door but not seriously. After a reviving milky coffee and water it was time to head off to the coach station. Debs tried to get us upgraded to Cama without success, so it was back upstairs for the view but less comfort!
Off on the bus to a family send off at 12:30.
Pete attempted to sleep and Alison on her Kindle. The "lunch pack "was delivered at Concepcion, but it was just biscuits again, so the apples that we could not find on the outward journey and a very delicious banana from Debs provided a welcome alternative.
Back to the bus station bang on time 17:50 and met by the driver, who had some problems finding his car!
Back at the hotel by 18:30 and we had been upgraded to room 7 Ocampo, which had a canopy over the bed. Orange juice arrived shortly after; quick shower and ready for our 20:30 pickup for the tango show. We were the first to be picked up so we were treated to a bumpy ride around the streets of Palermo, picking up a party from Puerto Rico and couples from Boston and Brazil.
We shared a table with the couple from Boston. Pete was still a little delicate from his BBQ overload the night before, so chose a light meal of soup and pasta, but Alison managed the mozzarella and ham roll, followed by a rather large steak, which she didn't quite finish!
The Tango show was very professional and skillful with some gymnastic feats of brilliance; it finished shortly before midnight and we were back at the hotel after another bumpy ride by 12:15.
There was a note in our room advising us that breakfast the following day could be in our room or the courtyard; we chose the courtyard.
It transpired that for some reason the phone had decided to set Uruguay time at 7.30 there by missing the alarm for 8!
Up to the 4th floor for a very light breakfast - no tables were set, so it was a free for all where we sat.
The view was fantastic, but the windows did not open so the tables by the windows were very hot, so we chose one where we could see the view in comfort.
We left our room and sat outside in the shade waiting for Debs in temperatures approaching 70F.
Back to Debs' place and the children were bouncing around ready for showers, lunch (empaladas again) . Ann & Bob's bedroom had been flooded from the pet shop next door but not seriously. After a reviving milky coffee and water it was time to head off to the coach station. Debs tried to get us upgraded to Cama without success, so it was back upstairs for the view but less comfort!Off on the bus to a family send off at 12:30.
Pete attempted to sleep and Alison on her Kindle. The "lunch pack "was delivered at Concepcion, but it was just biscuits again, so the apples that we could not find on the outward journey and a very delicious banana from Debs provided a welcome alternative.
Back to the bus station bang on time 17:50 and met by the driver, who had some problems finding his car!
Back at the hotel by 18:30 and we had been upgraded to room 7 Ocampo, which had a canopy over the bed. Orange juice arrived shortly after; quick shower and ready for our 20:30 pickup for the tango show. We were the first to be picked up so we were treated to a bumpy ride around the streets of Palermo, picking up a party from Puerto Rico and couples from Boston and Brazil.
We shared a table with the couple from Boston. Pete was still a little delicate from his BBQ overload the night before, so chose a light meal of soup and pasta, but Alison managed the mozzarella and ham roll, followed by a rather large steak, which she didn't quite finish!
The Tango show was very professional and skillful with some gymnastic feats of brilliance; it finished shortly before midnight and we were back at the hotel after another bumpy ride by 12:15.
There was a note in our room advising us that breakfast the following day could be in our room or the courtyard; we chose the courtyard.
Tuesday, 21 October 2014
Our bus trip to see Debs and family.
Pete woke at 04:15 before the alarm went off and we showered and did the last of our packing just in time for the arrival of our welcome breakfast tray at 05:00.
Alison was sniffling most of the night and seems to have caught Pete's cold.
We left our packed suitcases in the room and just took our backpacks with us into reception. Our car arrived on the dot at 05:30 and whisked us into the central coach station, where we arrived at 06:00, before much of it was open! We reckon we could have had another half hour in bed, but better early than late, as they say.
We soon found the waiting area in Zone E and our coach was shown on the screens at 06:45 and arrived 5 minutes later. The driver studied our tickets in great detail and even wanted to see the return tickets as well as the outward ones and both passports, before letting us on.
We had been allocated seats one and two on the top deck and right at the front, giving a superb view and opportunities for some video photography en route.
It was fine so long as you didn't look down as it seemed every time the bus turned a corner it was going to crash into both sides of the road!
We drove past the Puerto Wilson and containers stacked high on either side of the road, and then onto a main autopista out of the city.
We were going nicely and then left the main road to our first stop, where we were given our lunch box (which contained four different varieties of biscuit). After a short time the urbanscape was transformed into lush green, especially once we had crossed over the river bridge into Entre Rios.
Every now and then there was a toll stop or a slow down at a Police checkpoint. At one of these the bus was pulled over and the police entered and started examining ID's and passports. After much rummaging, Alison found these and had them ready, but the policeman ignored the front row and so we could put them away again and were soon on our way. There was water on tap, which was needed, as the sun was streaming in through the windscreen, but we didn't want to close the blinds; we could see buzzard eagles, who had built their nests in the electricity pylons lining our route.
After about 4 hours we saw the first sign to Colon and then we turned off to Concepcion del Uraguay, a large town, where we spent some time navigating the streets before finding the coach station. Back out on a different road and we sailed past the turning to Colon, only to find ourselves driving down unpaved tracks in San Jose, arriving there at about 12 noon, the time we were due in Colon.
However Colon was only 10 km back down a different road and we soon arrived at the coach station to be met by Ann & Bob who walked us back the short distance to Debs' and Hugo's house.
The girls were a little shy and were getting ready for school, but hunger overtook shyness as we all tucked into empaladas before Hugo took them to their afternoon session. Debs then drove us the short distance to our hotel, which is pleasantly situated near the banks of the river, but sufficiently far away and high enough to have avoided the recent floods.
A brief chill-out before Debs arrived again to pick us up and take us back home for a celebration BBQ.
Debs picked us up at 18:00 and took us back to their house; Olivia and Mia had lost their shyness and great fun was had by all. Hugo gfot his barbecue going and what an excellent meal that was - pork and beef ribs and oh I forgot sausage to start off. Some salad to accompany the meat. Paulo, Hugo's business partner, arrived bearing ice cream which we had for dessert. We all ate far too much and drank not a little red wine, finished off with a shot of whisky! it was past midnight, we could not keep our eyes open any more, Debs took us back and we crashed out on the bed!
Alison was sniffling most of the night and seems to have caught Pete's cold.
We left our packed suitcases in the room and just took our backpacks with us into reception. Our car arrived on the dot at 05:30 and whisked us into the central coach station, where we arrived at 06:00, before much of it was open! We reckon we could have had another half hour in bed, but better early than late, as they say.
We soon found the waiting area in Zone E and our coach was shown on the screens at 06:45 and arrived 5 minutes later. The driver studied our tickets in great detail and even wanted to see the return tickets as well as the outward ones and both passports, before letting us on.
We had been allocated seats one and two on the top deck and right at the front, giving a superb view and opportunities for some video photography en route.
It was fine so long as you didn't look down as it seemed every time the bus turned a corner it was going to crash into both sides of the road!
We drove past the Puerto Wilson and containers stacked high on either side of the road, and then onto a main autopista out of the city.
We were going nicely and then left the main road to our first stop, where we were given our lunch box (which contained four different varieties of biscuit). After a short time the urbanscape was transformed into lush green, especially once we had crossed over the river bridge into Entre Rios.
Every now and then there was a toll stop or a slow down at a Police checkpoint. At one of these the bus was pulled over and the police entered and started examining ID's and passports. After much rummaging, Alison found these and had them ready, but the policeman ignored the front row and so we could put them away again and were soon on our way. There was water on tap, which was needed, as the sun was streaming in through the windscreen, but we didn't want to close the blinds; we could see buzzard eagles, who had built their nests in the electricity pylons lining our route.
After about 4 hours we saw the first sign to Colon and then we turned off to Concepcion del Uraguay, a large town, where we spent some time navigating the streets before finding the coach station. Back out on a different road and we sailed past the turning to Colon, only to find ourselves driving down unpaved tracks in San Jose, arriving there at about 12 noon, the time we were due in Colon.
However Colon was only 10 km back down a different road and we soon arrived at the coach station to be met by Ann & Bob who walked us back the short distance to Debs' and Hugo's house.
The girls were a little shy and were getting ready for school, but hunger overtook shyness as we all tucked into empaladas before Hugo took them to their afternoon session. Debs then drove us the short distance to our hotel, which is pleasantly situated near the banks of the river, but sufficiently far away and high enough to have avoided the recent floods.A brief chill-out before Debs arrived again to pick us up and take us back home for a celebration BBQ.
Monday, 20 October 2014
Walking around Buenos Aires.
Up as usual, shower and breakfast at 08:00 and out of the Hotel by 08:45 for the short walk (8 blocks to the right, then a further 2 blocks right along Avenue Santa Fe until we reached the green Subeo sign for Palermo station. Bought two tickets (@ 5 pesos each) from the ticket office and went down to the platform. The first train came in was completely full but lots more people crammed in while we waited for the next one right opposite where the door had closed. The next train arrived in a few minutes and we let the crowd push us into the carriage. We were concertinaed until the 8th stop when Alison was offered a seat. At the 10th and last stop we disembarked and went up the escalator straight onto the street. We found our bearings and walked to the meeting point by the monument.
Claudio met us at 09:45 and after discussing our preferences, we started our walk at the Presidential Palace which is permanently protected by anti-demonstration barricades as there is usually a demonstration each day in the morning against government policy, followed by one in the afternoon in favour! Police vehicles, including water cannons, were deployed, with engines running at all times as violence could flare up without warning.
We went inside the opulent interior of the national bank (photography not allowed) and then to the cathedral, which from the outside looked like a museum. Pope Francis was a Cardinal here. A special Mass was being celebrated in remembrance of the patron saint of the municipal police
This cathedral houses the mausoleum of repatriated remains of Jose de San Martin, who died in exile in France.
We then saw a white building designed by Blanci (a Jesuit) the colonial town hall, which was previously a prison.
On the way to San Telmo we called in at the Iglesia de San Ignacio, which houses the mausoleum of General Belgrano and commemorates the successful fight against the British invasion of 1806-07. One of its towers bears the marks of cannon fired as the British force took refuge in the church.
On to San Telmo, whose graffitti-lined streets demonstrate that it is an area on the up aiming to match the bohemian district of Palermo.
We moved onto the canal area of Puerto Madero with its mothballed failed tram system, and the Catholic university, with its striking new bridge (ladies bridge according to Debs) and the masts of the former sail training vessel to be seen.
Then we caught the number 64 bus back to Place Mayo, where we took our leave of Claudio and enjoyed a welcome sit down and lunch at cafe Tortoni, the oldest cafe in Buenos Aires, and whose colonial decor was reminiscent of La Cigale in Nantes. A delicious salad, glass of wine and ice cream dessert were what we needed after our morning stroll.
We left the cafe and headed towards the Avenue 9 de Julio, the widest street in Buenos Aires, and one of the widest in the world, with 11 traffic lanes in each direction. On past the obelisk and to the Teatre Colon, which is the superb Opera House. Unfortunately, all the English tours were sold out, so we were unable to see it. Some more strolling around and then it was a cab back to the hotel, to rest up and then write up today's activities.
back at the Hotel, the evening porter suggested that, if we would like some pasta, Il Grand Carouso, just a few blocks away, would be a good choice. We duly found it, but having looked at the extensive menu, chose antipasti to share for starters followed by chicken for Alison and veal for Pete. once again we were too full for dessert, so asked for cafe solo; this was served, not with sparkling water, but sparkling wine! When we complemented them on their wine, we were surpirsed to be offered another glass just as we were leaving, served outside whilst we watched the world go by!
We did not quite have enough pesos for the bill, and surprisingly they did not accept dollars, so this was our first credit card transaction (apart from the hire car deposit).
Then a short walk back to the Hotel ready for our early start tomorrow!
Claudio met us at 09:45 and after discussing our preferences, we started our walk at the Presidential Palace which is permanently protected by anti-demonstration barricades as there is usually a demonstration each day in the morning against government policy, followed by one in the afternoon in favour! Police vehicles, including water cannons, were deployed, with engines running at all times as violence could flare up without warning.
We went inside the opulent interior of the national bank (photography not allowed) and then to the cathedral, which from the outside looked like a museum. Pope Francis was a Cardinal here. A special Mass was being celebrated in remembrance of the patron saint of the municipal policeThis cathedral houses the mausoleum of repatriated remains of Jose de San Martin, who died in exile in France.
We then saw a white building designed by Blanci (a Jesuit) the colonial town hall, which was previously a prison.On the way to San Telmo we called in at the Iglesia de San Ignacio, which houses the mausoleum of General Belgrano and commemorates the successful fight against the British invasion of 1806-07. One of its towers bears the marks of cannon fired as the British force took refuge in the church.
On to San Telmo, whose graffitti-lined streets demonstrate that it is an area on the up aiming to match the bohemian district of Palermo.
We moved onto the canal area of Puerto Madero with its mothballed failed tram system, and the Catholic university, with its striking new bridge (ladies bridge according to Debs) and the masts of the former sail training vessel to be seen.Then we caught the number 64 bus back to Place Mayo, where we took our leave of Claudio and enjoyed a welcome sit down and lunch at cafe Tortoni, the oldest cafe in Buenos Aires, and whose colonial decor was reminiscent of La Cigale in Nantes. A delicious salad, glass of wine and ice cream dessert were what we needed after our morning stroll.
We left the cafe and headed towards the Avenue 9 de Julio, the widest street in Buenos Aires, and one of the widest in the world, with 11 traffic lanes in each direction. On past the obelisk and to the Teatre Colon, which is the superb Opera House. Unfortunately, all the English tours were sold out, so we were unable to see it. Some more strolling around and then it was a cab back to the hotel, to rest up and then write up today's activities.
back at the Hotel, the evening porter suggested that, if we would like some pasta, Il Grand Carouso, just a few blocks away, would be a good choice. We duly found it, but having looked at the extensive menu, chose antipasti to share for starters followed by chicken for Alison and veal for Pete. once again we were too full for dessert, so asked for cafe solo; this was served, not with sparkling water, but sparkling wine! When we complemented them on their wine, we were surpirsed to be offered another glass just as we were leaving, served outside whilst we watched the world go by!
We did not quite have enough pesos for the bill, and surprisingly they did not accept dollars, so this was our first credit card transaction (apart from the hire car deposit).
Then a short walk back to the Hotel ready for our early start tomorrow!
Calafate Extreme!
Another glorious sunrise this morning, but Pete was too lazy to take any photographs! We were early for breakfast and were packed and ready for our pickup to Calafate Extreme. As we had not found a cambio in town, we paid the Hotel bill in dollars, but the exchange rate offered was closer to official rather than blue.
The Land Rover arrived at 10:30 and we joined a family group of four and another older couple - all from Argentina. We were told that it is Mother's Day today, so all the mothers present were congratulated.
After a few minutes we were off road on a private Estansia and were climbing steeply up a track until we reached a Road Closed sign and encountered a JCB blocking the road.
Evidently, this had been expected and we all disembarked and walked 100 meters up the track to where another vehicle was parked.
Safely in our new vehicle, we started on the real 4X4 experience, steep inclines and muddy tracks until we had ascended 900 meters above El Calafate and were able to see a panoramic view of Lake Argentina and were level with the soaring Condors.
Then back down even steeper slopes, across boggy mud and snowdrifts until we became stuck (deliberately we think). Out we all got again and much to the amusement of the children, the driver drove back and forth in the ruts until he decided he could get out. Pete managed to get mud all over his trousers as he climbed back in!
On we drove with the driver having to keep his door shot, fortunately all of our doors stayed closed, until we rounded a bend to see an Argentine flag perched on top of a large cable drum used as a table, with a wood-fired barbecue to the side and a tin shack, which had a dining table, wood-fired stove and gas cooker. It was warm enough for us to stay out side so our driver turned chef and suggested we go for a 20-minute walk while he prepared lunch.
He lit the barbecue and then found an upturned dustbin lid on which he fried onions and vegetables, before adding some wine and pieces of steak (two each)!.
We enjoyed our steak sandwiches outside washed down with cups of wine (we had to keep filling them otherwise they would blow away)!
Some more exciting driving followed, with the driver hanging onto his door, until we reached the point where we had left the first vehicle. By now the JCB had dug a big ditch across the road and a stream was running through it. so we had to climb the hill at the side and then slide down into the mud to reach our vehicle. So we even manged to get mud on our boots for the first time.
Back to the Hotel, we had time to sit on the veranda enjoying a welcome cup of Patagonian tea and petits fours, while we waited for our pickup to the airport.
The driver arrived early, so we did not have time to finish this blog and relaxed in a comfortable car (for the first time for 5 days). We checked our luggage in and discovered that our expected departure tax had been paid.
We had a pleasant flight mainly over clouds as the sun set and when we reached Buenos Aires, all we could see were the street lights, so we hope for a better view on our afternoon flight to Iguazu. For some reason everyone clapped as the plane landed and then clapped again after the stewards had welcomed us. We had to disembark onto coaches, and when we reached arrivals there was great confusion as to which belt our luggage would arrive on - first no 3 then no 8 and it actually came on no 5 with a completely different flight being indicated!
Claudio our young guide and the driver were waiting for us and he had managed to park right outside the exit door - try doing that at a UK airport! Claudio came into the Hotel with us, sat us down in reception and went through all of the rest of our trip with us in detail. He made sure that our room was to our liking in this amazing definitely boutique Hotel. He also gave us our bus tickets and passed on the good news that the pickup for our bus to Colon would be at 05:30!
He then arranged our meeting point for the following day and told us how to get to the subway station and that the green line D would take us all the way to Catedral, near to where he would meet us the following day in the Place Mayo. So it was off to our room, Afrodite, as by now it was now after 23:00, and a welcome night's sleep.
The Land Rover arrived at 10:30 and we joined a family group of four and another older couple - all from Argentina. We were told that it is Mother's Day today, so all the mothers present were congratulated.
After a few minutes we were off road on a private Estansia and were climbing steeply up a track until we reached a Road Closed sign and encountered a JCB blocking the road.
Evidently, this had been expected and we all disembarked and walked 100 meters up the track to where another vehicle was parked.
Safely in our new vehicle, we started on the real 4X4 experience, steep inclines and muddy tracks until we had ascended 900 meters above El Calafate and were able to see a panoramic view of Lake Argentina and were level with the soaring Condors.Then back down even steeper slopes, across boggy mud and snowdrifts until we became stuck (deliberately we think). Out we all got again and much to the amusement of the children, the driver drove back and forth in the ruts until he decided he could get out. Pete managed to get mud all over his trousers as he climbed back in!
On we drove with the driver having to keep his door shot, fortunately all of our doors stayed closed, until we rounded a bend to see an Argentine flag perched on top of a large cable drum used as a table, with a wood-fired barbecue to the side and a tin shack, which had a dining table, wood-fired stove and gas cooker. It was warm enough for us to stay out side so our driver turned chef and suggested we go for a 20-minute walk while he prepared lunch.He lit the barbecue and then found an upturned dustbin lid on which he fried onions and vegetables, before adding some wine and pieces of steak (two each)!.
We enjoyed our steak sandwiches outside washed down with cups of wine (we had to keep filling them otherwise they would blow away)!
Some more exciting driving followed, with the driver hanging onto his door, until we reached the point where we had left the first vehicle. By now the JCB had dug a big ditch across the road and a stream was running through it. so we had to climb the hill at the side and then slide down into the mud to reach our vehicle. So we even manged to get mud on our boots for the first time.
Back to the Hotel, we had time to sit on the veranda enjoying a welcome cup of Patagonian tea and petits fours, while we waited for our pickup to the airport.
The driver arrived early, so we did not have time to finish this blog and relaxed in a comfortable car (for the first time for 5 days). We checked our luggage in and discovered that our expected departure tax had been paid.
We had a pleasant flight mainly over clouds as the sun set and when we reached Buenos Aires, all we could see were the street lights, so we hope for a better view on our afternoon flight to Iguazu. For some reason everyone clapped as the plane landed and then clapped again after the stewards had welcomed us. We had to disembark onto coaches, and when we reached arrivals there was great confusion as to which belt our luggage would arrive on - first no 3 then no 8 and it actually came on no 5 with a completely different flight being indicated!
Claudio our young guide and the driver were waiting for us and he had managed to park right outside the exit door - try doing that at a UK airport! Claudio came into the Hotel with us, sat us down in reception and went through all of the rest of our trip with us in detail. He made sure that our room was to our liking in this amazing definitely boutique Hotel. He also gave us our bus tickets and passed on the good news that the pickup for our bus to Colon would be at 05:30!
He then arranged our meeting point for the following day and told us how to get to the subway station and that the green line D would take us all the way to Catedral, near to where he would meet us the following day in the Place Mayo. So it was off to our room, Afrodite, as by now it was now after 23:00, and a welcome night's sleep.
Saturday, 18 October 2014
Excursion to Perito Moreno Glacier
Another sunny morning; we went down for breakfast buffet (bananas at last!) and met a couple from Boston while we were waiting for our coach to the Glacier and discovered that they were on the same trip. Alison looked out of the lounge window and saw the Bentley Rally passing by on their way to Ushuaia.
The bus arrived and we set off on our scenic drive to the glacier. We stopped for two scenic views and then arrived at the Park entrance where our entrance tickets were stamped. We had another stop in the park for our first view of the Glacier and then arrived at the "balconies" where we had approximately 2.5 hours to walk the balconies.
The guide showed us the routes that were feasible in the time allowed and we went down to the second balcony, where we were able to get close-up views of the glacier and hear the occasional cracking and watch the ice cascading down the face of the Glacier and hitting the lake with a crash.
The face of the Glacier was 50 meters high and extended 130 meters below the surface of the lake.
We went back up to the restaurant, where Alison went our side and waited patiently while Pete went to buy 2 hot chocolates. He went to the service point, but was told he had to pay elsewhere, so joined the queue for the checkout. 20 minutes later he managed to pay for the drinks (just 60 pesos) and then joined a second queue for service. By this time Alison was sending out a search party, but probably enjoyed the chance to sit down.
A short browse in the boutique and the back on the bus to the boarding point for the catamaran Victoria Argentina. The boat was quite full and we were not allowed upstairs until we were under way and the emergency drill had been done.We all dashed upstairs as soon as we were allowed to get the best camera spot, but we should not have worried as the boat spent about a half an hour 300 meters from the face of the glacier.
It was a great trip, we didn't see any big crashes of ice and noticed that the ice was not as blue as the Lago Grey glacier, neither were there no large icebergs in the lake. So it was very worthwhile to have done both trips as the experiences were different, but we were very fortunate to have had perfect weather each time.
The bus dropped us in town so that we could visit the Cambios, but as it was Saturday they were closed, so we were able to change some money at a cafe next door, which took Euros, Dollars and even Chilean pesos and served local beer. They called us a taxi which arrived before we had finished our beer!
We returned to the Hotel and were met like long lost friends; we had booked another trip for tomorrow on the bus and the tour company had even phoned the hotel to let them know.
We then relaxed on the decking with a cup of Patagonian fruit tea until the temperature fell so that we had to come indoors.
.
For dinner Pete had Patagonian tooth-fish and Alison Patagonian Trout, washed down with Patagonian Chardonnay. Our pickup for tomorrow is at 10:00 so we will have time to pack up before we leave for our excursion.
The bus arrived and we set off on our scenic drive to the glacier. We stopped for two scenic views and then arrived at the Park entrance where our entrance tickets were stamped. We had another stop in the park for our first view of the Glacier and then arrived at the "balconies" where we had approximately 2.5 hours to walk the balconies.
The guide showed us the routes that were feasible in the time allowed and we went down to the second balcony, where we were able to get close-up views of the glacier and hear the occasional cracking and watch the ice cascading down the face of the Glacier and hitting the lake with a crash.The face of the Glacier was 50 meters high and extended 130 meters below the surface of the lake.
We went back up to the restaurant, where Alison went our side and waited patiently while Pete went to buy 2 hot chocolates. He went to the service point, but was told he had to pay elsewhere, so joined the queue for the checkout. 20 minutes later he managed to pay for the drinks (just 60 pesos) and then joined a second queue for service. By this time Alison was sending out a search party, but probably enjoyed the chance to sit down.
A short browse in the boutique and the back on the bus to the boarding point for the catamaran Victoria Argentina. The boat was quite full and we were not allowed upstairs until we were under way and the emergency drill had been done.We all dashed upstairs as soon as we were allowed to get the best camera spot, but we should not have worried as the boat spent about a half an hour 300 meters from the face of the glacier.
It was a great trip, we didn't see any big crashes of ice and noticed that the ice was not as blue as the Lago Grey glacier, neither were there no large icebergs in the lake. So it was very worthwhile to have done both trips as the experiences were different, but we were very fortunate to have had perfect weather each time.
The bus dropped us in town so that we could visit the Cambios, but as it was Saturday they were closed, so we were able to change some money at a cafe next door, which took Euros, Dollars and even Chilean pesos and served local beer. They called us a taxi which arrived before we had finished our beer!
We returned to the Hotel and were met like long lost friends; we had booked another trip for tomorrow on the bus and the tour company had even phoned the hotel to let them know.
We then relaxed on the decking with a cup of Patagonian fruit tea until the temperature fell so that we had to come indoors.
.
For dinner Pete had Patagonian tooth-fish and Alison Patagonian Trout, washed down with Patagonian Chardonnay. Our pickup for tomorrow is at 10:00 so we will have time to pack up before we leave for our excursion.
Friday, 17 October 2014
Torres el Paine to El Calafate
We woke up to another glorious day. We went for breakfast and just met up with Katy and Susie who were leaving at 08:00 to catch their 13:00 flight back home.
We paid our bill and because we paid in Pesos, some of teh services were subject to VAT, which is not the case if you pay in US Dollars.
Our luggage was collected and we said farewell before our 09:00 trip, which we shard with two other guests.
The trip to the border was very comfortable as soon as we left the national park as we were on paved roads. we reached the border in under 2 hours and waited in the gift shop, with cups of hot chocolate, until our very smart driver took us through the border controls and then drove us to the actual border, which was almost unnoticeable, and then onto the Argentinian border control, which was the smallest building we had encountered; no bureau de change here, which we were hoping to use,
shortly after the border control, we waited for our Argentine transport and boarded the 9-seater bus while the drivers transferred our luggage.
Alison noticed that each time we passed a wayside shrine, the driver would toot his horn, touch his rosary and say hail Mary, then continue on at breakneck speed safe in the knowledge that he had divine protection.
Prior to the border we had noticed Condors circling and another large bird of prey, which may have been a buzzard eagle. We saw more Condors at the changeover point; the birds were circling a flock of sheep, no doubt looking for a weak spring lamb.
The landscape flattened out without a sign of life apart from mother-in-law's cushion, nothing seems to grow here more than a foot high.
We were dropped off at La Estepa at about 15:30, well ahead of schedule and were greeted warmly by the friendly staff and shown to our first floor room which had a panoramic view of the lake.
.
We were contacted by the local representatives to confirm our tours and also by the representatives in Buenos Aires, who have amended our Iguazu falls tour as part of the pathway has been washed away.
Thanks Richard for another surprise; we are off for a walk to see the flamingos on the lake and will open and enjoy later.
The flamingos stay here all year, whilst they only visit Torres for the summer.
We walked for about an hour and a half down to the lakeside and noticed the contrast in the amount of litter - in Torres even the chewing gum is picked up.
We will be dining in tonight and enjoying the shades of pink as the sun sets - another early morning for sunrise photography beckons!
We are looking forward to our glacier tour tomorrow.
We paid our bill and because we paid in Pesos, some of teh services were subject to VAT, which is not the case if you pay in US Dollars.
Our luggage was collected and we said farewell before our 09:00 trip, which we shard with two other guests.
The trip to the border was very comfortable as soon as we left the national park as we were on paved roads. we reached the border in under 2 hours and waited in the gift shop, with cups of hot chocolate, until our very smart driver took us through the border controls and then drove us to the actual border, which was almost unnoticeable, and then onto the Argentinian border control, which was the smallest building we had encountered; no bureau de change here, which we were hoping to use,
shortly after the border control, we waited for our Argentine transport and boarded the 9-seater bus while the drivers transferred our luggage.
Alison noticed that each time we passed a wayside shrine, the driver would toot his horn, touch his rosary and say hail Mary, then continue on at breakneck speed safe in the knowledge that he had divine protection.
Prior to the border we had noticed Condors circling and another large bird of prey, which may have been a buzzard eagle. We saw more Condors at the changeover point; the birds were circling a flock of sheep, no doubt looking for a weak spring lamb.
The landscape flattened out without a sign of life apart from mother-in-law's cushion, nothing seems to grow here more than a foot high.
We were dropped off at La Estepa at about 15:30, well ahead of schedule and were greeted warmly by the friendly staff and shown to our first floor room which had a panoramic view of the lake.
.
We were contacted by the local representatives to confirm our tours and also by the representatives in Buenos Aires, who have amended our Iguazu falls tour as part of the pathway has been washed away.
Thanks Richard for another surprise; we are off for a walk to see the flamingos on the lake and will open and enjoy later.
The flamingos stay here all year, whilst they only visit Torres for the summer.
We walked for about an hour and a half down to the lakeside and noticed the contrast in the amount of litter - in Torres even the chewing gum is picked up.
We will be dining in tonight and enjoying the shades of pink as the sun sets - another early morning for sunrise photography beckons!
We are looking forward to our glacier tour tomorrow.
Thursday, 16 October 2014
Horseriding to Nordenskjolg lake
We woke up to drizzle and went over to our room to don our wet weather gear, raincoats gloves and scarves, but no hats as we would be wearing helmets!
9:15 we met Roberto our guide who took us and 7 others to meet the gauchos and our horses for our 3-hour ride - a little daunting for those of us who had not been on the back of a horse before.
We started very slowly on the flat and as we got more confident, crossed a stream then a river and zig-zagged down a hill on very slippery shale down to the foreshore of the lake.
Alison's heart was beating fast, the gaucho called out:"lady ok?" and when he received the thumbs-up rode away, but not too far. It was mainly single file so not many opportunities for conversation.
The 5 expert riders went for a gallop and rejoined us at the foot of the slope.
The horses seemed to know when they were on their way home and broke into a trot without warning, they must have sensed that we were a little more confident, perhaps!
Alison's knee locked up so it took three of us to get her off at the end!
We waddled back to the hotel but eventually regained our normal gait.
Alison apologizes for no photos, as she couldn't manage the reins and a camera at the same time, but Pete did try a little video on the move.
Once again we saw Guanacos and hares, but our only new sighting was of a lapwing right up close.
Now into the bar for some lunch.
After lunch we revived our bodies in the Jacuzzi for a half hour session.
Thereafter, back to the Bar for some blogging, interrupted by dark clouds which kept on breaking our Internet connection!
We have enjoyed a wonderful stay here, seen some unforgettable sights and done some most unusual things!
Tomorrow we are off to El Calafate 09:00 - 16:00 including yet another border crossing, which we hope is not as stressful as the previous one! Off to pack ready for tomorrow!
9:15 we met Roberto our guide who took us and 7 others to meet the gauchos and our horses for our 3-hour ride - a little daunting for those of us who had not been on the back of a horse before.
We started very slowly on the flat and as we got more confident, crossed a stream then a river and zig-zagged down a hill on very slippery shale down to the foreshore of the lake.
Alison's heart was beating fast, the gaucho called out:"lady ok?" and when he received the thumbs-up rode away, but not too far. It was mainly single file so not many opportunities for conversation.
The 5 expert riders went for a gallop and rejoined us at the foot of the slope.
The horses seemed to know when they were on their way home and broke into a trot without warning, they must have sensed that we were a little more confident, perhaps!
Alison's knee locked up so it took three of us to get her off at the end!
We waddled back to the hotel but eventually regained our normal gait.
Alison apologizes for no photos, as she couldn't manage the reins and a camera at the same time, but Pete did try a little video on the move.
Once again we saw Guanacos and hares, but our only new sighting was of a lapwing right up close.
Now into the bar for some lunch.
After lunch we revived our bodies in the Jacuzzi for a half hour session.
Thereafter, back to the Bar for some blogging, interrupted by dark clouds which kept on breaking our Internet connection!
We have enjoyed a wonderful stay here, seen some unforgettable sights and done some most unusual things!
Tomorrow we are off to El Calafate 09:00 - 16:00 including yet another border crossing, which we hope is not as stressful as the previous one! Off to pack ready for tomorrow!
An unusual birthday!
Alison's birthday :)
There were two cards on the bedside this morning when she woke up.
Also one Swarovski bag with this year's Christmas Star; this was the reason that Pete's camera backpack had been searched (very discreetly) at Heathrow airport - thereafter the star found its way into a secret compartment of the main luggage!
It is a little cloudy and we hope that the sun will come out soon, but there seems to be no wind.
Pete was still coughing a bit in the shower and the forecast is for wind of less than 10kph and temperature a heady 7 degrees.
We enjoyed another delicious breakfast and said farewell to Val and Pat, who were off to El Calafate, so we suggested that they look out for the Bentley drivers. An email was sent to Peter and Margaret in response to their message; we have no cellphone service here, no TV and only occasional internet - absolute bliss (except for the avid sports fans of course!)
At 9.30, Kate and Susie, together with Ian from Toronto and Daniela, our Canadian Guide, joined us for our "Full Paine" excursion, which was to last all day. We had ordered our sandwiches the evening before and were given a snack bag with drinks and chocolate bars, whilst our sandwiches were stored in a cool-box.
We set off and stopped to walk around a lake to see Black-necked Swans and Flamingos. and Alison managed to catch a shot of the flamingos flying overhead.
Our next stop was at Lago Pehoe, where there were more stunning views of the snow-capped peaks.
The we drove on to the Salto Grande waterfall; this is known to be a very windy site, but today was mild and overcast, but with very little wind and no rain.
We continued driving alongside the Rio Paine, stopping off at Weber Bridge and then on to the Park Administration Centre for a comfort break and to look around the displays.
Once outside we were confronted by a picnic table and a magnificent birthday buffet spread, complete with red wine, courtesy of the hotel!
We also had our sandwiches, of course.
We then drove to the Lago Grey Hotel to check in for our boat trip and walked for about 10minutes along the lakeshore to wait for the tender which was to take us to our catamaran for the 3-hour trip to and from the Glacier face. The lake was strewn with icebergs of amazing shapes and with deep blue colouring where the light had penetrated the ice.
We were told that the water in the lake was 3 degrees and we were fully kitted out with hat and gloves (except when filming of course).
On the way, we picked up some kayakers. Alison went mad with the camera and took over 100 photos, while Pete was videoing away, so you will not see all of them here; we are just glad that we put a bigger chip in both cameras! Poor Ian flattened his camera battery!
The mountains were markedly striped with granite and sedimentary strata and amazingly photogenic.
We took about an hour to reach the glacier face which was about 30 meters high and met the lake in three separate fingers of ice.
On our route back home, we stopped again at Lago Pehoe as the wind had dropped, the water was very still and the reflections perfect - some of our best pictures so far!
As we neared the Hotel Las Torres were beautifully silhouetted against the setting sun, which frustratingly had decided to show its face just as we left Lago Grey.
We arrived back at 20:30, 11 hours after we left; just time for a quick change and into the restaurant for a buffet dinner; for some reason the waiter served us a "celebratory" Pisco Sour and then we had a very dry and light chardonnay with our meal.
We both decided that we did not need desserts, so went back to the bar for coffee and to do the blog. Alison ordered the coffee and Pete went into the room for the Netbook and diary.
He returned with a slate containing two Tiramisu "birthday cakes" and a bottle of bubbly and two glasses! There was no time for blogging as Ian, Katy and Susie joined us in the Bar to help us enjoy the evening whilst the harpist played on.
There were two cards on the bedside this morning when she woke up.
Also one Swarovski bag with this year's Christmas Star; this was the reason that Pete's camera backpack had been searched (very discreetly) at Heathrow airport - thereafter the star found its way into a secret compartment of the main luggage!
It is a little cloudy and we hope that the sun will come out soon, but there seems to be no wind.
Pete was still coughing a bit in the shower and the forecast is for wind of less than 10kph and temperature a heady 7 degrees.
We enjoyed another delicious breakfast and said farewell to Val and Pat, who were off to El Calafate, so we suggested that they look out for the Bentley drivers. An email was sent to Peter and Margaret in response to their message; we have no cellphone service here, no TV and only occasional internet - absolute bliss (except for the avid sports fans of course!)
At 9.30, Kate and Susie, together with Ian from Toronto and Daniela, our Canadian Guide, joined us for our "Full Paine" excursion, which was to last all day. We had ordered our sandwiches the evening before and were given a snack bag with drinks and chocolate bars, whilst our sandwiches were stored in a cool-box.We set off and stopped to walk around a lake to see Black-necked Swans and Flamingos. and Alison managed to catch a shot of the flamingos flying overhead.
Our next stop was at Lago Pehoe, where there were more stunning views of the snow-capped peaks.
The we drove on to the Salto Grande waterfall; this is known to be a very windy site, but today was mild and overcast, but with very little wind and no rain.We continued driving alongside the Rio Paine, stopping off at Weber Bridge and then on to the Park Administration Centre for a comfort break and to look around the displays.
We also had our sandwiches, of course.
We then drove to the Lago Grey Hotel to check in for our boat trip and walked for about 10minutes along the lakeshore to wait for the tender which was to take us to our catamaran for the 3-hour trip to and from the Glacier face. The lake was strewn with icebergs of amazing shapes and with deep blue colouring where the light had penetrated the ice.
We were told that the water in the lake was 3 degrees and we were fully kitted out with hat and gloves (except when filming of course).
On the way, we picked up some kayakers. Alison went mad with the camera and took over 100 photos, while Pete was videoing away, so you will not see all of them here; we are just glad that we put a bigger chip in both cameras! Poor Ian flattened his camera battery!
The mountains were markedly striped with granite and sedimentary strata and amazingly photogenic.
We took about an hour to reach the glacier face which was about 30 meters high and met the lake in three separate fingers of ice.
On our route back home, we stopped again at Lago Pehoe as the wind had dropped, the water was very still and the reflections perfect - some of our best pictures so far!
As we neared the Hotel Las Torres were beautifully silhouetted against the setting sun, which frustratingly had decided to show its face just as we left Lago Grey.
We arrived back at 20:30, 11 hours after we left; just time for a quick change and into the restaurant for a buffet dinner; for some reason the waiter served us a "celebratory" Pisco Sour and then we had a very dry and light chardonnay with our meal.
We both decided that we did not need desserts, so went back to the bar for coffee and to do the blog. Alison ordered the coffee and Pete went into the room for the Netbook and diary.
He returned with a slate containing two Tiramisu "birthday cakes" and a bottle of bubbly and two glasses! There was no time for blogging as Ian, Katy and Susie joined us in the Bar to help us enjoy the evening whilst the harpist played on.
Tuesday, 14 October 2014
Blue Lagoon and Patagon
The sun rose over the hill at 7.40 and streamed into our ground floor room. It looks deceptively warm and calm, but our Full Paine excursion has been postponed until tomorrow because of forecast winds which may abate later and ensure that the boat trip can proceed tomorrow.
We found the restaurant for breakfast, (B&G the trip reminded us of Malta as we had to walk from block to block); the selection was very good (just under top notch).
We walked back tour room outside in the warm sunshine; donned our boots and put all the cold and wet weather gear in our rucksacks and met Carlos who was our guide for the morning excursion at the very acceptable time of 9:15. We were joined by Val from Sydney, whilst her companion Pat had a one to one excursion elsewhere.
The morning was most enjoyable with short car trips and walks in between, allowing us to see lots of wildlife, such as Condors, circling for their kill, Guamacos (not llamas as we thought yesterday) a grey fox, ibis and a black chested buzzard eagle. We saw flamingos from a distance and upland Magellan geese. On the ground was mother in law's cushion (looks lovely but is prickly) and a red flowered Neneomacho. The Guamacos were having territorial fights in places. We walked the shore of the blue lagoon and saw the ibis close up. On the way back to the Hotel we stopped at the waterfall on the Rio Paine.
We returned at 12:30 for some hot chocolate, uploaded our photos and then had a leisurely lunch, beautifully served in the restaurant before our next trip at 15:00
!5:00 we met Ricardo our guide and were joined by Pat, while Val "chilled out" for the afternoon.
We were driven out to the start of our 7km hike via a neolithic cave "Patagon" ending up at the largest lake in the area, Sarmieneto. Walking was fairly easy to start, but there was a climb up to the cave. Plenty of stops to take pictures of the scenery, get up close to the wildlife and view the carcasses left by the elusive Pumas, who were not coming out to play.
There were still paintings, with paint made from berries and animal oils visible in the caves.
In the distance it was just possible to see the Patagonian ice field, which we hope to get a closer view of in a few days time at El Califate.
We saw long tailed meadowlark, grey sparrow, austral thrush, collared sparrow and a few hares. On the way back we stopped at the side of the road to watch the rheas feeding. The weather so far has been gloriously sunny, with a very variable wind which can appear suddenly out of nowhere and knock you sideways!
Back to Hotel by 19:30 where we had a refreshing drink and confirmed tomorrows "Full Paine" excursion and ordered our packed lunches from Carlos. Not being hungry enough for a full restaurant meal it was into the bar to blog and snack (with just a little wine of course).
We found the restaurant for breakfast, (B&G the trip reminded us of Malta as we had to walk from block to block); the selection was very good (just under top notch).
We walked back tour room outside in the warm sunshine; donned our boots and put all the cold and wet weather gear in our rucksacks and met Carlos who was our guide for the morning excursion at the very acceptable time of 9:15. We were joined by Val from Sydney, whilst her companion Pat had a one to one excursion elsewhere.
The morning was most enjoyable with short car trips and walks in between, allowing us to see lots of wildlife, such as Condors, circling for their kill, Guamacos (not llamas as we thought yesterday) a grey fox, ibis and a black chested buzzard eagle. We saw flamingos from a distance and upland Magellan geese. On the ground was mother in law's cushion (looks lovely but is prickly) and a red flowered Neneomacho. The Guamacos were having territorial fights in places. We walked the shore of the blue lagoon and saw the ibis close up. On the way back to the Hotel we stopped at the waterfall on the Rio Paine.!5:00 we met Ricardo our guide and were joined by Pat, while Val "chilled out" for the afternoon.
We were driven out to the start of our 7km hike via a neolithic cave "Patagon" ending up at the largest lake in the area, Sarmieneto. Walking was fairly easy to start, but there was a climb up to the cave. Plenty of stops to take pictures of the scenery, get up close to the wildlife and view the carcasses left by the elusive Pumas, who were not coming out to play.
There were still paintings, with paint made from berries and animal oils visible in the caves.In the distance it was just possible to see the Patagonian ice field, which we hope to get a closer view of in a few days time at El Califate.
We saw long tailed meadowlark, grey sparrow, austral thrush, collared sparrow and a few hares. On the way back we stopped at the side of the road to watch the rheas feeding. The weather so far has been gloriously sunny, with a very variable wind which can appear suddenly out of nowhere and knock you sideways!Back to Hotel by 19:30 where we had a refreshing drink and confirmed tomorrows "Full Paine" excursion and ordered our packed lunches from Carlos. Not being hungry enough for a full restaurant meal it was into the bar to blog and snack (with just a little wine of course).
Monday, 13 October 2014
Puerto Varas to Torres el Paine
We had a very early night as we were both tired from the long drive and Pete had been sneezing quite a lot (delayed reaction to his flu jab perhaps?)
We woke at 07:15, packed up all the cases were down for breakfast at 08:00.
Delicious home cooked fare with freshly blitzed berry juice, granola, strawberry cake, fresh fruit salad and freshly scrambled eggs.
Our very friendly hosts offered to check us in, but Skyairline did not support online check-in for some reason. We were told the quick way to the Ruta 5 and that we would need 600 pesos for the toll. We left about 08:35 and arrived at about 09:20. Keys returned to Hertz, then through security with our bottle of water with no problems!
We were pleased to receive a text message from Margaret, but each time we tied to reply we obtained a system failure, so apologies Margaret if you received 0 or 4 replies! We boarded the plane - row 25 of 26, but there was plenty of room for our backpacks and we enjoyed a snack on the 2-hour flight.
We collected our cases and waved to a lady holding up a Harris sign only to find that she was waiting for another Harris! We then discovered that we were sharing the transfer with two ladies from London, who had also booked their holiday with Audley, so we were able to exchange experiences - they had started at Atacama and then done some skiing down the Orsono volcano (the outside)!
the guide advised us that the journey time would be about six hours, but that we were stopping at and Estancia for a 15:30 "lunch". The weather was gale force wind with occasional driving sleet, a typical pataginian welcome, but the scenery was outstanding, with snowdrifts by the roadside, snow-capped mountains and a varied landscape mainly populated by sheep sheltering from the wind behind bushes.
Once we arrived at the 6,000 hectare Cerro Negro Estancia we were shown around the original house, which had been owned by the Kusanovic family since 1944, when they had emigrated from Croatia in 1944.
It was furnished with 18/19th century European furniture and had been maintained largely in its original condition.
Our lunch comprised a sour lemon cocktail, a lamb/beef pasty followed by spit-roasted lamb. We were all quite hungry by this time!
Lunch over we headed back on the road for another three hours, stopping here and there for pictures, including our first sight of the famous Torres el Paine.
We passed rheas and llamas by the roadside and then stopped at the national park control, where we we given maps of the area and noted that the UV index can rise to 11 in summer (today it was merely 3).
We arrived at our Hotel at around 19:30 and are now the proud recipients of gold (coloured plastic) bracelets which indicate that we are "all inclusive", so all meals drinks and excursion are included in our price.
It was a great relief for our nomadic existence to be suspended and to be able to unpack at last! We have now planned our excursions for the next 3 days - weather permitting - more details of these in due course! Wifi in the room does not work, so it is necessary to pre-write this and then upload it in the lounge area.
We have to say that we were very pleased that we had been booked on the early flight from Puerto Varas; even though we did not see that area, it did mean that our long transfer to La Torres was completed in daylight hours.
We are clearly benefiting from the fact that this is "low" season in that the hotel is not busy and it is easy to get on all of the excursions.
We woke at 07:15, packed up all the cases were down for breakfast at 08:00.
Delicious home cooked fare with freshly blitzed berry juice, granola, strawberry cake, fresh fruit salad and freshly scrambled eggs.
Our very friendly hosts offered to check us in, but Skyairline did not support online check-in for some reason. We were told the quick way to the Ruta 5 and that we would need 600 pesos for the toll. We left about 08:35 and arrived at about 09:20. Keys returned to Hertz, then through security with our bottle of water with no problems!
We were pleased to receive a text message from Margaret, but each time we tied to reply we obtained a system failure, so apologies Margaret if you received 0 or 4 replies! We boarded the plane - row 25 of 26, but there was plenty of room for our backpacks and we enjoyed a snack on the 2-hour flight.
We collected our cases and waved to a lady holding up a Harris sign only to find that she was waiting for another Harris! We then discovered that we were sharing the transfer with two ladies from London, who had also booked their holiday with Audley, so we were able to exchange experiences - they had started at Atacama and then done some skiing down the Orsono volcano (the outside)!
the guide advised us that the journey time would be about six hours, but that we were stopping at and Estancia for a 15:30 "lunch". The weather was gale force wind with occasional driving sleet, a typical pataginian welcome, but the scenery was outstanding, with snowdrifts by the roadside, snow-capped mountains and a varied landscape mainly populated by sheep sheltering from the wind behind bushes.
Once we arrived at the 6,000 hectare Cerro Negro Estancia we were shown around the original house, which had been owned by the Kusanovic family since 1944, when they had emigrated from Croatia in 1944.
It was furnished with 18/19th century European furniture and had been maintained largely in its original condition.
Our lunch comprised a sour lemon cocktail, a lamb/beef pasty followed by spit-roasted lamb. We were all quite hungry by this time!
Lunch over we headed back on the road for another three hours, stopping here and there for pictures, including our first sight of the famous Torres el Paine.We passed rheas and llamas by the roadside and then stopped at the national park control, where we we given maps of the area and noted that the UV index can rise to 11 in summer (today it was merely 3).
We arrived at our Hotel at around 19:30 and are now the proud recipients of gold (coloured plastic) bracelets which indicate that we are "all inclusive", so all meals drinks and excursion are included in our price.
It was a great relief for our nomadic existence to be suspended and to be able to unpack at last! We have now planned our excursions for the next 3 days - weather permitting - more details of these in due course! Wifi in the room does not work, so it is necessary to pre-write this and then upload it in the lounge area.
We have to say that we were very pleased that we had been booked on the early flight from Puerto Varas; even though we did not see that area, it did mean that our long transfer to La Torres was completed in daylight hours.
We are clearly benefiting from the fact that this is "low" season in that the hotel is not busy and it is easy to get on all of the excursions.
Sunday, 12 October 2014
Las Balsas to Puerto Varas
Alison woke to find Pete taking sunrise photos and videos over the Lake. He probably woke the hotel as the wooden floor creaked every time you breathed.
When Alison eventually stirred we both went down to the spa in our costumes, bathrobes and slippers for a wake-up swim, braving the cold outside air in the process!
Some of the Bentley drivers were having breakfast, also in bathrobes, so we did not feel at all out of place.
A quick proper shower and then down for a delicious breakfast and whilst Alison packed Pete blogged away, discovering that we had taken 93 photos yesterday, so there is some editing to do!
We left Las Balsas just before noon, having first established the correct route to the border!
We had been expecting an unpaved road all the way to the border, but it had been totally paved fairly recently.
By 12:45 the temperature had dropped to 5 degrees as we ascended the Andes in misty rain and by the time we reached the Border, it had dropped to 3 degrees.
Today was a day of some expensive and not so expensive surprises!
At the border there were still snowdrifts amongst the debris from the volcanic eruption three years ago. The first surprise was that it cost 200 pesos to use the toilet, and the second was that a small wooden present bought in Chile, taken to and from Argentina was promptly confiscated by Chilean Customs. At that point Alison went to spend 200 pesos.
Once we arrived back in Chile, the temperature returned to a more pleasant 14 degrees and we decided to take the advice in our Audley black book to visit Termas de Puyehue for a snack lunch. When we arrived it looked closed as there were cones in the road, but the "sentryman" asked our name and then let us in. We asked the way to the restaurant and found out that it was serving a Buffet Lunch only. We were not that hungry, but managed a salad and small main, washed down with a glass of water and coffee.
We went to reception to pay and they asked for US$ 75 each! This would have allowed us a full day in the resort 10 - 8 all inclusive ... but we only want lunch! So they very kindly reduced the charge to CHP 4500, still rather expensive at about £30 EACH.
After an uneventful drive, through the springtime countryside dotted with flowering trees and bluebells (apart from the 20km of roadworks towards Orsono) we reached Ruta 5 and Alison got her CHP500 ready for the exit toll at Puerto Varas. However half way there we encountered a tollbooth where there was a charge of CHP2500, but no indication of the tariff!
So we put our money away and headed on the the Puerto Varas turnoff (which was not signposted Puerto Varas Norte as we had been expecting). Another CHP500 was needed here!
We then had some detailed instructions to reach Estancia 440, which we followed faithfully and reached it first time! We were greeted by a very pleasant lady who offered us tea and apple cake.
The journey had taken about 6 hours in all including all our photo-stops and border issues.
When Alison eventually stirred we both went down to the spa in our costumes, bathrobes and slippers for a wake-up swim, braving the cold outside air in the process!
Some of the Bentley drivers were having breakfast, also in bathrobes, so we did not feel at all out of place.A quick proper shower and then down for a delicious breakfast and whilst Alison packed Pete blogged away, discovering that we had taken 93 photos yesterday, so there is some editing to do!
We left Las Balsas just before noon, having first established the correct route to the border!
We had been expecting an unpaved road all the way to the border, but it had been totally paved fairly recently.
By 12:45 the temperature had dropped to 5 degrees as we ascended the Andes in misty rain and by the time we reached the Border, it had dropped to 3 degrees.Today was a day of some expensive and not so expensive surprises!
At the border there were still snowdrifts amongst the debris from the volcanic eruption three years ago. The first surprise was that it cost 200 pesos to use the toilet, and the second was that a small wooden present bought in Chile, taken to and from Argentina was promptly confiscated by Chilean Customs. At that point Alison went to spend 200 pesos.
Once we arrived back in Chile, the temperature returned to a more pleasant 14 degrees and we decided to take the advice in our Audley black book to visit Termas de Puyehue for a snack lunch. When we arrived it looked closed as there were cones in the road, but the "sentryman" asked our name and then let us in. We asked the way to the restaurant and found out that it was serving a Buffet Lunch only. We were not that hungry, but managed a salad and small main, washed down with a glass of water and coffee.
We went to reception to pay and they asked for US$ 75 each! This would have allowed us a full day in the resort 10 - 8 all inclusive ... but we only want lunch! So they very kindly reduced the charge to CHP 4500, still rather expensive at about £30 EACH.
After an uneventful drive, through the springtime countryside dotted with flowering trees and bluebells (apart from the 20km of roadworks towards Orsono) we reached Ruta 5 and Alison got her CHP500 ready for the exit toll at Puerto Varas. However half way there we encountered a tollbooth where there was a charge of CHP2500, but no indication of the tariff!
So we put our money away and headed on the the Puerto Varas turnoff (which was not signposted Puerto Varas Norte as we had been expecting). Another CHP500 was needed here!
We then had some detailed instructions to reach Estancia 440, which we followed faithfully and reached it first time! We were greeted by a very pleasant lady who offered us tea and apple cake.
The journey had taken about 6 hours in all including all our photo-stops and border issues.
St Martin to Villa la Angostura
After packing our cases, we went out to find the cambio in the town so that we could change some money and work out the best route to the filling station.
Alison bought a pair of "scholl-type" clogs and Pete bought 2 bottles of water with our new found wealth. We then packed the car, filled up with 24l of petrol and headed off four our "7 lakes" drive at about 11:00.
Our first stop was at the Lago Lacar in St martin, which we had not visited the day before. We then set off on the Ruta 40 and managed to cover just 10km in 45 minutes, due to frequent photo stops!
Fortunately the first part of the "unpaved road" to Lago Maliquina had been upgraded, so we could have gone much faster than the 40-60 kph limit and many locals were of course overtaking us, especially where there were double yellow lines.
We then continued on the unpaved section through the Lanin National park, where a speed of 30kph seemed appropriate for us, but not the vehicles which sped past creating clouds of dust!
Next stop was the Lago Meliquina, then lago Villerica also taking in a waterfall stop.
back on a paved road again as we stopped at Lago Espejo and then Lago Correntoso before dropping down into Villa la Angostura arriving at 15:00. We had not been given any specific directions to our Hotel, so assumed that it would be well signpostd from the main road through the Town, which according to our map went straight on towards Bariloche.
We had no success and stopped at a lakeside village, which we later discovered was Puertos, where we asked directions and were told to go back towards Villa la Angostura and turn right on an unpaved road. This took us to Once, so we retraced our steps, eventually finding the Tourist information centre, where we were given a local map, but unfortunately we misunderstood the directions in Spanish and turned left at the main road but not left again, being somewhat confused by a diversion. Some more driving and visiting Mapuche settlements on the road to Puertos (which we still thought was to Puerto Manzana) got us back to Puertos again, where we agin asked directions using the map this time and were directed to the right road. We eventually arrived at Las Balsas at 17:15, having taken over two hours to find the hostellerie!
We were greeted very warmly on arrival, shown to some lakeside seating, where we enjoyed a rather late lunch and glass of wine, and of course some more photography.
Apparently they had had snow in September, which was unheard of, but did mean that the mountains were picturesque.
Once we had chilled out we were shown to our "Muella" suite, which had fabulous views of the lake and, before even unpacking we took a trip to the spa, where we enjoyed a swim indoors, ducked outside into the pool (just 36 degrees) and afterwards a Jacuzzi of merely 39 degrees. This was followed by a Scottish Shower, which spayed very hot or very cold water from all directions at once and was uncontrollable!
As we had had a "rather late lunch" we did not go down to dinner until 21:00, which was still way before the party of Bentley drivers had all arrived! When they did arrive, they all raised their glasses walked around the table and even included us in the "cheers"!
We enjoyed a fabulous meal, and some good company, eventually getting back to our room around midnight - far to late for blogging!
Alison bought a pair of "scholl-type" clogs and Pete bought 2 bottles of water with our new found wealth. We then packed the car, filled up with 24l of petrol and headed off four our "7 lakes" drive at about 11:00.
Our first stop was at the Lago Lacar in St martin, which we had not visited the day before. We then set off on the Ruta 40 and managed to cover just 10km in 45 minutes, due to frequent photo stops!
Fortunately the first part of the "unpaved road" to Lago Maliquina had been upgraded, so we could have gone much faster than the 40-60 kph limit and many locals were of course overtaking us, especially where there were double yellow lines.
We then continued on the unpaved section through the Lanin National park, where a speed of 30kph seemed appropriate for us, but not the vehicles which sped past creating clouds of dust!
Next stop was the Lago Meliquina, then lago Villerica also taking in a waterfall stop.
back on a paved road again as we stopped at Lago Espejo and then Lago Correntoso before dropping down into Villa la Angostura arriving at 15:00. We had not been given any specific directions to our Hotel, so assumed that it would be well signpostd from the main road through the Town, which according to our map went straight on towards Bariloche.
We had no success and stopped at a lakeside village, which we later discovered was Puertos, where we asked directions and were told to go back towards Villa la Angostura and turn right on an unpaved road. This took us to Once, so we retraced our steps, eventually finding the Tourist information centre, where we were given a local map, but unfortunately we misunderstood the directions in Spanish and turned left at the main road but not left again, being somewhat confused by a diversion. Some more driving and visiting Mapuche settlements on the road to Puertos (which we still thought was to Puerto Manzana) got us back to Puertos again, where we agin asked directions using the map this time and were directed to the right road. We eventually arrived at Las Balsas at 17:15, having taken over two hours to find the hostellerie!
We were greeted very warmly on arrival, shown to some lakeside seating, where we enjoyed a rather late lunch and glass of wine, and of course some more photography.
Apparently they had had snow in September, which was unheard of, but did mean that the mountains were picturesque.
Once we had chilled out we were shown to our "Muella" suite, which had fabulous views of the lake and, before even unpacking we took a trip to the spa, where we enjoyed a swim indoors, ducked outside into the pool (just 36 degrees) and afterwards a Jacuzzi of merely 39 degrees. This was followed by a Scottish Shower, which spayed very hot or very cold water from all directions at once and was uncontrollable!
As we had had a "rather late lunch" we did not go down to dinner until 21:00, which was still way before the party of Bentley drivers had all arrived! When they did arrive, they all raised their glasses walked around the table and even included us in the "cheers"!
We enjoyed a fabulous meal, and some good company, eventually getting back to our room around midnight - far to late for blogging!
Friday, 10 October 2014
Pucon to St martin de los Andes
Afterwards he finally managed to get the Netbook to connect to wifi, so was able to upload the blog.
The cars were glistening with frost early morning, but it melted away before we left. The bird life is interesting and noisy at times, the swifts were swooping around last evening and again this morning.
Went down for breakfast at 08:30; a varied buffet complete with a warm apple pie and some petits cadeaux which would have delighted Amandine and Charlie!
We stopped en route as the Villerica volcano was cloudless and emitting some puffs of steam. The outside temperature was 11 degrees when this photo was taken at about 10:30.
When we arrived at Curarrehue, the last town in Chile, it had dropped to 8 degrees. The Mapuche museum was full of a school party so we had a quick look and then warmed up with the cheapest cup of coffee in Chile - around 60p - and had a wander around the village.
The bus shelters and small kiosks were all made out of lava rock.
We carried on through fantastic scenery in unbroken sunshine on unmade roads, which were all subject to roadworks We took a photo of the Quetrupillan volcano in the national park and the Lanin volcano at the Chilean customs post.The road was so bad that we nearly damaged the undercarriage driving out of the viewpoint and we had to keep our distance because of the dust that was thrown up by the impatient drivers who overtook us. We duly went through Immigration and Customs at the Chilean border control and completed the forms for the Argentine border, which was 1.9 km away, not 19 km as stated in our guide. The scenery on the Argentine side of the border was much flatter with rolling hills reminiscent of English countryside with cattle horses and sheep, one of which decided to walk in front of the car.
We crossed a rickety wooden plank bridge across the river Malleo (our guide suggested there was a village, but we just found roadworks).
We arrived at St Martin de los Andes with no idea of the location of our hotel, so we stopped for a hot chocolate and delicious gateau to ask the way!
Arrived at the hotel and whilst Pete was parking the car, the Aliwen incoming agents phoned to check that we had arrived safely and received our vouchers. temperature here on arrival at about 16:30 was 15 degrees. The trip had taken about 7 hours of leisurely driving and frequent photo stops.
We had expected to change our watches, but Argentine time and Chilean summertime are the same!
Santiago to Pucon
Night-time at the Hotel was exceptionally quiet,
bearing in mind its central location, but we both woke at around 5am and then
dozed off until re-awakened by the gentle sounds of the Alarm. We enjoyed an excellent buffet breakfast,
seated in the domed glass conservatory; it was a little cool to be outside.
Our driver arrived on time to take us to the
airport. The road outside the hotel was
very busy, but once we had negotiated the traffic lights, the journey to the
airport took about 30 minutes and we were well on time for dropping off our
bags. Quickly through security and just
time for a hot chocolate before we were called for boarding.
The view of the Andes was exhilarating, prompting
some more photography from Alison's phone, the camera being in the overhead
locker.
As we neared Temuco we could see large fields of
what we assumed was yellow rape.
We checked in at the Hertz desk and were pleased
to be given a Hyundai Elantra, which was
an 5-door automatic with a generous boot. The Hertz rep took his assistant with
him to show us the white car so that he could learn some more English, but the
assistant spoke not a word! Luckily,
there are rather a lot of chips and scratches, so they are unlikely to notice a
few more!
It was a little strange to be driving a left hand
drive car and Alison kept complaining that the car was nearly in the
pothole-gutter!
We had a slight disagreement with the driving
directions, which seemed to suggest driving 37km along the Ruta 5 when in fact
we drove only about 4km before turning off onto the 199 towards Villerica. This may be because there is a new airport
South of Temuco.
We stopped briefly at the side of the lake in
Villerica and then proceeded on to Pucon, where we found our charming
chalet-style hotel exactly in accordance with our directions.
Unfortunately, it is not the right season for the wood-fired hot tub!
We have an excellent lake-view room and are
looking forward to some sunrise pictures in the morning.
A quick unload of the car and then down into
Pucon to look around. The Villerica
volcano was beautifully snow-capped, but also cloud-capped, but
nevertheless very picturesque. As we had not been given any local area maps
(either by Trails of Chile or Hertz) we found a small shop and bought a
"Trekking Map" of Chiloe and Patagonia coast to coast, which covers exactly the area we
will be driving over the next few days, except that the road numbers seem to
have changed!
We decided to go with the Audley-recommended
"Trawen" restaurant for our evening
meal and an excellent choice it was!
Once again we shared a Maichin salad as a starter: roast pumpkin, ham, parmesan and mushrooms
with salad leaves; each half portion seemed like a full one. For mains, Alison had a Mariocos rissotto:
octopus, squid and prawn, while Pete managed Racupillau: trout with shrimp,
artichokes and rice. After the main
course the rain came pouring down so we were forced to consider a dessert.
Pete managed a very large chocolate fondant and
Alison was content with a d-i-y- Americano: double expresso, jug of hot water
and a glass of sparkling water.
The rain cleared, but the temperature had dropped
to around 9 degrees and we succeeded in finding where we had parked the car in
a side-street. We drove back with the
setting sun painting some wonderful colours on the mountains and found the
120-degree left turn into the hotel drive without any problems.
Back to write the blog, only to find that the
Netbook won't connect to the WiFi, so this is being written in word pad for
later upload. Tomorrow we drive over the
1210 m Mamuil Malal pass into Argentina, so are expecting to stop rather a lot
for the photography. Its now "tomorrow" and the WiFi is working again! Sunrise pictures follow on tomorrow's blog!
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